Do you see what I see? Yes, a beautiful yellow finch enjoying the seeds of this black eyed susan!
Don't give up hope, with a few adjustments, common garden impatiens will continue to be a mainstay of our landscapes.
Wednesday, October 24, 2012
Thursday, October 4, 2012
Multi-Layered Approach to Protecting Spring Bulbs
The temperatures are cooling down, which means it's time to start thinking about your Spring garden bulbs.
This year, with the groundhog family still threatening our garden, it's time to take some defensive action. Woodchucks, also known as groundhogs (among other choice names in my house) along with squirrels, moles and voles can wreak havoc on your bulbs and garden. Not only do they nibble on the flowers, but they also dig down to get at the bulbs. It may take a combination of a few measures that may protect your tulips and bulbs from groundhogs. I've come up with a three stage plan:
Moles and Groundhogs aren't entirely evil. Moles do a great job of aerating the soil, amending the garden soil with their "organic matter" and devouring grubs. My plan is just to keep them from devouring our bulbs.
Preparation: The Trench
In front of our porch where the bulbs share garden space with our peonies (it's time to give them a little TLC, too). The peonies need to be divided and their soil amended. I usually mix some bone meal, and peat moss into the soil. Digging a trench is more time efficient than planting bulbs individually. I also prefer a mass of colorful flowers rather than a few bulbs here and there.
Stage One: Block pests from below.
A bottom barrier of 1/2-inch galvanized wire mesh below the level of the bulbs and peony roots will line the trench. You can place mesh around larger plants individually. The mesh will allow the roots to grow while will stopping moles from uprooting them and killing them.
Stage Two: Deter pests from nibbling.
1. Sprinkle Granulated Plantskydd in the bottom of your hole. (You may also choose to spray the bulbs with liquid Plantskydd. Follow the directions on the container and allow the bulbs to dry before planting.)
2. Cover the Plantskydd and wire mesh with a thick layer of soil.
3. Plant your bulbs - gently pressing them into the soil pointed end UP.
4. Cover with soil leaving an inch or two for Stage Three.
Stage Three: Block pests from above.
Top your trench with a piece of chicken wire that extends a few feet past the garden's edge. Top with a layer of soil and cover that with a thick layer of mulch.
Another option is to install a fence around your garden. It would need to be 3 feet above ground and 10-12 inches below ground to keep groundhogs from digging under the fence.
About Plantskydd's® Granular Formulation:
Plantskydd® is a natural repellent that REALLY works! BONUS: Plantskydd's active ingredient is an organic fertilizer.
Protect your garden, plants, and trees from: rabbits, voles, hares, chipmunks, squirrels, mountain beaver, nutria, opossum and other small rodents with Plantskydd GRANULAR Repellents. One pound of granulated Plantskydd will cover approximately 600 square feet.
October is also a good time to spray liquid Plantskydd on your trees and shrubs that are susceptible to deer damage. The odor fades in a day or sy, but it keeps working for up to 6 months!
Article compiled by Renee C. Brannigan
This year, with the groundhog family still threatening our garden, it's time to take some defensive action. Woodchucks, also known as groundhogs (among other choice names in my house) along with squirrels, moles and voles can wreak havoc on your bulbs and garden. Not only do they nibble on the flowers, but they also dig down to get at the bulbs. It may take a combination of a few measures that may protect your tulips and bulbs from groundhogs. I've come up with a three stage plan:
Moles and Groundhogs aren't entirely evil. Moles do a great job of aerating the soil, amending the garden soil with their "organic matter" and devouring grubs. My plan is just to keep them from devouring our bulbs.
Preparation: The Trench
In front of our porch where the bulbs share garden space with our peonies (it's time to give them a little TLC, too). The peonies need to be divided and their soil amended. I usually mix some bone meal, and peat moss into the soil. Digging a trench is more time efficient than planting bulbs individually. I also prefer a mass of colorful flowers rather than a few bulbs here and there.
Stage One: Block pests from below.
A bottom barrier of 1/2-inch galvanized wire mesh below the level of the bulbs and peony roots will line the trench. You can place mesh around larger plants individually. The mesh will allow the roots to grow while will stopping moles from uprooting them and killing them.
Stage Two: Deter pests from nibbling.
1. Sprinkle Granulated Plantskydd in the bottom of your hole. (You may also choose to spray the bulbs with liquid Plantskydd. Follow the directions on the container and allow the bulbs to dry before planting.)
2. Cover the Plantskydd and wire mesh with a thick layer of soil.
3. Plant your bulbs - gently pressing them into the soil pointed end UP.
4. Cover with soil leaving an inch or two for Stage Three.
Stage Three: Block pests from above.
Top your trench with a piece of chicken wire that extends a few feet past the garden's edge. Top with a layer of soil and cover that with a thick layer of mulch.
Another option is to install a fence around your garden. It would need to be 3 feet above ground and 10-12 inches below ground to keep groundhogs from digging under the fence.
About Plantskydd's® Granular Formulation:
Plantskydd® is a natural repellent that REALLY works! BONUS: Plantskydd's active ingredient is an organic fertilizer.
Protect your garden, plants, and trees from: rabbits, voles, hares, chipmunks, squirrels, mountain beaver, nutria, opossum and other small rodents with Plantskydd GRANULAR Repellents. One pound of granulated Plantskydd will cover approximately 600 square feet.
October is also a good time to spray liquid Plantskydd on your trees and shrubs that are susceptible to deer damage. The odor fades in a day or sy, but it keeps working for up to 6 months!
Article compiled by Renee C. Brannigan
Tuesday, October 2, 2012
Tuesday, September 11, 2012
URI Master Composter
The URI Master Composter program trains volunteers to compost and to become advocates for composting and recycling within their local community and around the state. To earn the title 'URI Master Composter' participants in the program must attend all classes and fulfill a volunteer commitment of at least 30 hours.
Location
Location
Classes will be held at URI's main campus in Kingston. Directions will be emailed prior to the class starting. For field trips we will meet at scheduled location. Directions will be provided during the first class. Carpooling is encouraged and time will be set aside to organize on the first class if people are interested.
Price: $100.00
payable by check or credit card during online registration.
Click here to Register.
For more information about this course and others, visit the URI Outreach Center's website here.
What a sad summer for Impatiens.
Impatiens are one of the most common
and colorful bedding plants in the United States. If you've seen your
lush, full colorful impatiens fade and wither to scrawny stalks,
you've seen Downy Mildew (IDM) up close. It is a plant disease
(specifically a fungal-like pathogen) that is spreading. Downy mildew
was spotted on impatiens on both coasts last year.
Sources:
Powdery or Downy?
Since downy and powdery mildews are managed differently, it's really important to identify the issue correctly.
Downy mildew: Since downy and powdery mildews are managed differently, it's really important to identify the issue correctly.
- Appears very rapidly and is difficult to control.
- Found on the underside of leaves
- Causes the leaves and flower petals to drop off, and begins with leaf stippling, downward curling of leaves and leaf yellowing. After losing their petals and leaves, infected plants will die and appear like they had heavy frost damage.
- Also affects basil, coleus, snapdragon, salvia, alyssum, pansy, rose, rosemary, and ornamental cabbage, and Perennials including aster, coreopsis, geranium, geum, lamium, potentilla, veronica and viola.
- Can occur on either the upper or lower surface.
- Spreads slower than downy mildew.
- Causes minor long-term damage, stunting growth.
- Different species affect different plants/crops.
- Powdery mildews are most severe when the weather is warm and dry, and they affect virtually all kinds of plants: cereals and grasses, vegetables, flowers, weeds, shrubs, fruit trees, and broad-leaved shade and forest trees. Many plants have been developed to be resistant to or tolerant of powdery mildew.
Largely considered a minor nuisance
since the 1940s, DMI has been known from scattered and minor
occurrences in the U.S. beginning in 2008 it began to spread in
eastern parts of the U.S. It is a type of “water mold” that is
weather dependent requiring humid, moist
conditions and spreads by both airborne and water spores.
Without a susceptible host the
pathogen will eventually die off in the planting bed.
To prevent the disease from living in
your soil over the winter and returning next year:
- Remove and dispose of infected plants (roots included) immediately.
- Don't compost the infected plant material.
http://www.anla.org/knowledgecenter/ticker/index.cfm?view=detail&colid=123&cid=360&mid=5422&CFID=4020987&CFTOKEN=56688396
by Joe Bischoff, ANLA
http://www.anla.org/knowledgecenter/ticker/index.cfm?view=topic&colid=123&cid=360
by Joe Bischoff, ANLA
http://www.state.nj.us/agriculture/news/hottopics/approved/topics120706.html
The State of NJ Dept of Agriculture
More Resources:
Click here for the Ball Horticulture fact sheet.
Click here for the Syngenta fact sheet.
Click here for more information and photos.
Click here for the Ball Horticulture fact sheet.
Click here for the Syngenta fact sheet.
Click here for more information and photos.
Information compiled by Renee C. Brannigan
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