Friday, February 13, 2009

"If we had no winter,
the spring would not be so pleasant:
if we did not sometimes taste of adversity,
prosperity would not be so welcome."
Anne Bradstreet

Oh Deer!

Deterring Deer from Dining on your Delicacies!
Foraging Deer
Who isn't stopped in their tracks when they see a white-tailed deer foraging? Although, if you love your landscaping, you may want to shoo them away quickly. Deer can consume 5-9 pounds of leaves, twigs, grasses, fruit, twigs, and acorns daily and will quickly ravish your garden.

Every season, especially the snow covered ones, this is a hot topic at Woodbridge Greenhouses. Just the other day, as I looked out my window, I counted six deer foraging on a Balsam Fir. They must be starving!

We know that housing, roads, and development have invaded and fractured their normal range and led them to dine on the delicious gardens that replaced their mixed woodland buffet. With few natural predators, their populations thrive. In 2004 an estimated 15,800 white-tailed deer were grazing throughout Rhode Island.

If the wonderful plants in your garden are less appealing to deer, you have an advantage over your neighbors. Begin with a border of deer-repelling plants:
  • Alliums
  • Daffodils
  • Mint
  • Lavender
  • Sage
  • Thyme
Deer also seem to dislike fuzzy plants:
  • Artemesia
  • Dusty Miller
  • Lamb's Ear
Unfortunately, they'll need a little nibble to realize it's not so delicious, so you might see some bites missing.

Unless conditions are really tough, most woody plants are usually safe:
  • Blue Spruce
  • Spirea
  • Boxwood
  • Paniculata type hydrangea
Please ask us for help and arm yourself with free information from the University of Rhode Island (URI) Green Share Fact Sheet of Plants Least-Preferred by Deer.

Briefly, some of our favorite deer-resistant plants include: Allium, Ageratum, Artemesia, Baptisia, Buddleia, Celosias, Cleomes, Clethra, Caryopteris, Digitalis, Festuca, Lavender, Lupines, Marigolds, Miscanthus, Monarda, Nepeta, Pennisetum, Perovskia, Poppies, Salvia, Santolina, and Zinnias.

Of course, when deer food supplies are scarce, they will even eat plants on the deer-resistant plant list. So it's time for the next phase, which is Deer Deterrents, which affect deer either through sight, taste, hearing, smell or touch.


Fencing:
  • For just a few plants can be as simple as a cage of chicken wire or even an arch of wide wire fencing over larger plantings (which can also be moved for access).
  • Absolutely, the most effective barrier to stop a species that can jump eight feet high is a costly eight-foot tall deer fence.
  • A less expensive lower fence installed at a 45-degree angle has been proven to work.
  • Ninety percent of the time an electric fence with a single strand is effective.
  • A cheaper method to spook deer (which have poor eyesight) is to tie a heavy fishing line between two strong posts about two or three feet high. When they walk into it, the deer are spooked because they can't see what is stopping them.
Deer are repelled by the smell and flavor of Soap. If you are considering hanging "soap on a rope", you should know:
  • The fatty acids (tallow) in soap repel deer.
  • Soaps containing coconut and other natural oils attract raccoons and rodents.
  • Soap grated around the garden gives mixed results.
  • Hang soap in burlap or cheesecloth stapled to stakes in the garden in early spring.
  • Consider buying soap in bulk to save $$.
Sprays can be purchased or made with varying results. Taste deterrents are best if you want to look at the deer while protecting certain plants:
  • Rotten Egg
  • Garlic
  • Pepper, etc.
Odor repellents, often containing predator urine, don't require a taste test so there is less "sampling". Spraying should be done when conditions are dry and must be re-applied after rains. We have been using and recommend a product called Plantskydd for the past several years with 100% success. You do not need to reapply after rainfall and it is effective for up to 6 months. It also comes in a granular formula to sprinkle around your edibles.
  • Avoid sprays that also deter pollinators.
  • Spray thoroughly and from the ground up to 6 feet, which is thought to be their maximum reach.
  • Don't use mothballs -- they may be toxic to pets, birds, and children.
Click here for another great URI Fact Sheet for Deer Damage and Control.

Please feel free to call or email anytime (or stop by once we're open for the season), we can make specific recommendations for the type of plants that will meet your needs.

Source for RI deer facts: Dem.ri.gov/programs/bnatres/fishwild/pdf/deer.pdf
Web photo of supplemental deer feeding site found at: deerbeards.blogspot.com
Web photo of deer herd in snowy woods: FLICKR.com

Thursday, February 12, 2009

"Keep your faith in beautiful things;
in the sun when it is hidden,
in the Spring when it is gone."
- Roy R. Gibson

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

A Reader's Response:


Debbie, I really enjoy your newsletter articles. The December article Decorating for the Birds inspired me to enlist my two preschoolers to get creative feeding birds in our yard.

Patrick, Bridget, and I have spent some of the coldest days this winter testing a variety of bird “cookie” recipes we've found
on-line. The cookies have been decorating a pine tree and feeding a variety of wildlife. The recipes are packed with bird seeds and disappear from the pine tree within a week. The children are thrilled with the squirrels' antics, and have learned to identify the blue jays, and junkos. Soon I'm sure they'll be able to identify more.

I
t's been a great winter for snow lovers. For the rest of us, layers of snow and ice blanketing our garden mean the only thing growing is the bird seed bill. It seems that the birds (and squirrels and deer) enjoy a little variety once in a while. Last fall we saved some pumpkin and sunflower seeds for the birds. The children enjoy throwing bread crusts, crumbs, and over-ripe fruit, and cores outside to feed the birds. In fact, we have even found vegetable scraps (recent additions to the compost pile) on top of the wood pile, probably moved there by squirrels or mice.

The next internet recipe we plan to test is “peanut butter pudding” (one part peanut butter mixed with five parts cornmeal stuffed into pine cones or tree crevices) to attract woodpeckers, titmice, and warblers. To my relief, I learned that birds supplement their regular diet with our treats, so if our feeder goes empty from time to time, luckily, they won't starve.

So Debbie, thank you for getting us started on this wonderful winter hobby. I'd like to share with you links to three great websites that we've found:
  • Birding on the Net is a website where folks list birds and post photos of birds in Rhode Island. Pretty neat.
  • Audobon Society of Rhode Island's website is loaded with local birding information.
  • Birds of New England is a great website with photos, links and information to help with identification. This site helped us confirm that we received a visit from a Carolina Wren.
I've attached a bunch of pictures of our bird-cookies (brushed with molasses and sprinkled with extra birdseed) and some of our visitors.


Thanks again!
Renee Brannigan


Thursday, January 8, 2009

This Saturday: RI Wild Plant Society


RI WILD PLANT SOCIETY
Saturday, January 10, 2009
PROGRAM & GENERAL MEETING
Location: North Kingston Public Library
Wickford, RI
Guest Speaker: Leslie Duthie
Propagation Techniques for Native Plants

The first meeting of 2009 and do bring a friend as it is open to the public. In the event of questionable weather, a message will be left on the office phone.

Learn the ins and outs of propagating native plants from ferns to wildflowers to native trees and shrubs. The lecture will cover seed and spore collection, storage, time and temperature for germination, and hardwood and softwood cuttings. Native plants are generally easy to grow and some basic techniques are sufficient for propagating many different kinds of plants. Bring your questions on those plants you find "difficult to grow."

1:00 - 1:30 pm Business Meeting*
1:30 - 2:00 pm Refreshments & Fellowship
2:00 - 3:30 pm Program
Free and open to the public-Bring a friend
If your last name begins with the letters A-M,
please bring refreshments to share.

Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Ways to give your previously “live” Christmas tree new life

With great care, shortly after Thanksgiving, a fresh, fragrant pine tree was brought into your home. It was lovingly adorned with festive lights, garland, and ornaments. For many of us this stirred (hopefully) fond memories of Christmases past, family, and friends. This tree was the centerpiece for exchanging brightly wrapped packages in all sizes and shapes. Now it is time to safely stow away the ornaments, garland, lights and tinsel. This year, rather than putting your tree out with the trash, you can create more fond memories of your tree by giving it a new purpose, such as:

  • A resting and nesting place for birds, rabbits and other small creatures. Just lay your old tree in a remote corner of your yard. You may not see activity there, but you can watch for tracks after the next snowfall.

  • Mulch, if you have the equipment, or if your municipality collects them for that purpose.

  • Contact your town hall or county Extension office to see if they need your tree for a project. Some communities will collect spent Christmas trees to make their own mulch.

  • A birdseed buffet: Just decorate your Christmas tree for your feathered friends. It provides shelter from birds of prey. First, be sure to place it in a spot where you can enjoy the birds from inside your home. To secure it, either plant it temporarily or tie it to a fence or another tree. Decorate it with easy-to-make bird treats: just hang stale cookies, donuts, slices of bread, pretzels, apples or oranges by string or leftover Christmas ribbon. All of these can be coated in peanut butter and pressed in birdseed (just like pine cones when we were little). Click here for more ideas. Remember to refresh and replenish your decorative treats until the winter weather breaks.

  • Also, your lovely Christmas wreaths and roping (minus the decorations) can be simply hung on a nail on a tree outside. It makes a nice perch for birds to dine on bird treats (like pincones in peanut butter and birdseed).

  • Once ponds are safely frozen (definitely not yet around here), your tree can be dragged out onto the ice. When the ice melts, the tree will sink to the bottom and become a new habitat for the fish.

How to care for your Christmas Poinsettias

First, I was surprised to learn while researching this topic that many people don't yet know that Poinsettias are not poisonous. Although they are an ornamental plant, and not edible for people or pets, they don't pose a health threat. According to the American Society of Florists poinsettias have been tested more for toxicity more than any other plant. Because they are not edible, the leaves (known as “bracts”) could cause a little belly ache. Some people may have an allergic reaction when handling Poinsettia bracts, especially if they rub their eyes causing redness and irritation. Now, caring for those previously perky poinsettias, let's start with the easiest steps:
  • Prolong your poinsettias' blooms by giving it around six hours of daylight. If that's not possible, just give it as much bright light as you can.

  • Keep it away from drafts or excess heat.

  • Every day check the soil. Give it water as soon as it feels dry to the touch.

  • If you want to keep the decorative foil or plastic covering over its pot, just cut some holes in the bottom, and sit it on a pie plate to catch excess water. Just don't let it sit in extra water.

  • After it's done blooming (once it loses the yellow part of the flower), give it a dose of a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer.

  • As soon as you can, transplant your Poinsettias into a pretty ceramic pot (not larger than 4” bigger) that will help it retain moisture and give it room to grow.

  • In late March or early April, cut your poinsettia down to 8” tall, continue watering and fertilizing every few weeks. By the end of May, you should see lots of new growth. Prune it until September to keep it bushy.

  • To ensure blooms for next Christmas, beginning October 1, keep your Poinsettias in complete darkness for 14 hours each night. If you don't feel like moving them in and out of a very dark closet each day, cover them at night with a large box. Also, from October to December they need 6-8 hours of bright sun each day.

Interestingly, Poinsettias are very efficient houseplants for removing indoor pollutants. So, it may be worth the extra effort to keep them alive for next year. The bonus is that you might just get lovely, colorful blooms in December and January.
"Of winter's lifeless world each tree
Now seems a perfect part;
Yet each one holds summer's secret
Deep down within its heart."
~Charles G. Stater
"I prefer winter and fall,
when you feel the bone structure of the landscape
- the loneliness of it, the dead feeling of winter.
Something waits beneath it, the whole story doesn't show."'
~Andrew Wyeth